So when my Element ELCHW402 gave up the ghost I said it was the power supply – yes indeed it was. However I did a quick bit of math and figured out that for me to troubleshoot the power supply would take inordinately longer amounts of time than to just search the board number. What I’ll do is havest (and test) parts off the old power supply board over time. That way I’ll identify the common failure nodes.
So I did, and the best price I found was $69 from Sears Parts Direct.
I had ordered it two weeks ago and on the 11th I checked the tracking information and noted it said it had been delivered. Now it’s a good size box, not one I could easily miss but it was sent via SmartPost which is hit or miss.
I called Sears Parts Direct and emailed. In the email I told them I’d noted it delivered but never received and that if no response within 7 days I would move to have my bank charge back the purchase.
But the call was more productive. I was told I’d have the part by the 14th and sure enough, UPS shows up today with it at 12:25PM.
I installed the board and pressed the power button and wonder of wonders I saw the little blue “Component” banner pop up and then a blue screen with “No Signal”. She works!
You can repair consumer grade gear – you just have to be in possession of the skills to do so. A screwdriver (philips, straight edge, torx, hex), a pair of pliers, a multimeter or two, and the gumption to tear it apart.
That last part is what stops a lot of people. It’s easier for them to go out and buy a new television at several hundred dollars, than to spend around $70 and effect the repairs themselves.
We’ve become such a throw-away society. But not me – don’t throw it away, take it apart!
Now I just need to put the case back on but I’m leaning toward leaving it off. It’s how I ran my early computers – covers off. Never know when you want to fiddle with something inside.
Spewing Truth in the face of Lies 
I found this very helpful since I just ran into the same problem (same tv model, same 1 yr and a half, red light but the tv won’t turn on). Sadly I know very little about these things, still I decided to try and do what you did, my other option was just to get a new tv anyways… So far I already opened the tv and started looking for those bulgy capacitors but couldn’t find any, they all look flat except that big one in the middle, feels a little bulgy but that’s about it.
Still, I’m gonna try to replace the board and see if that solves the problem.
You’re welcome! Whenever I find a failing in consumer electronics I like to publish it, and if possible publish the fix I applied.
Well, I’m happy to report that I fixed my tv replacing the same part, and it only cost me around $85, that’s nothing in comparison to the $500 (at least) thatI was expecting to pay for a new tv. Thank you very much for taking the time to pushing this, it really helped me.. :)
I’m happy I could help. As I’ve said in all the posts regarding this, power supplies are the weak spot in virtually every HDTV set.
oops, *publish* not *pushing*
Thanks for this. I don’t know much about tv’s, but I have the exact problem you described…for a while I was able to unplug the tv from the wall and re-plug and turn it on, but today it just won’t power on. red light, but can’t get it to turn blue. For any others that may want to fix their tv…. Sears Parts Direct is now over $100 for the power supply board — I found it for $43 at shopjimmy.com just thought that could come in handy for someone else.
I haven’t taken my tv apart yet..it’s wall mounted so it will be a pain, but I figure I can tackle that issue when the part arrives…hopefully I’m not in over my head.
An update — Somehow the power cord in the back of the tv was not seated all the way…..Pushing it all the way in with some force, resolved my issue..perhaps my power supply is just fine..I have cancelled my order for the new power supply board as I am able to turn my tv on and off without issue right now.
Might have been worth keeping it stocked though – because eventually the power supplies do fail. I kept my old one and I’m going through it to find he main faults and fix them so when this one goes I can just swap it in.
Ok truthspew. Mine lasted me 3yrs before puking out on me with power supply problem. I replaced the blown capacitors , 2 of the larger ones that you had in the pic.Now I got the blue indicator light coming on but still no action.Any thoughts on this?
Replace the big cap – that is a known failure point.
you talking about the 250 v/390uF that’s about an inch and half round and about 2 inches tall?
Yes that’s the one.
was going to just replace the board but can’t seem to find one.Sears no longer has them.
Oh crud – I just plugged the board number into google – that’s how I found it. But yes mine came from Sears. So it looks like you’re going to have replace ALL the capacitors.
This informatіоn is invaluable. Hοw can I finjd out morе?